Wainwright's Coast-to-Coast Walk

We four women in our 70's completed this amazing walk in August/September 2019. We used C2C Packhorse to book our accommodation, transfer our luggage from village to village, even transferred one of our group on a couple of occasions. They were excellent. The accommodation was a mixture of b&b and pubs, and a mixture of quality - but no complaints. The walk was more difficult during the first few days as we were in the Lakes District - who knew there were mountains. We had a 21 day trip to allow us to walk for 3 or 4 days then have a day off, this worked well. What an exhilarating feeling to finish, we had tears & beers. Strongly recommend the Packhorse company and the walk.

We travelled the Coast 2 Coast walk in the UK this August/September with North West Walks making all of the arrangements. Dean was wonderful at promptly answering all of my questions about the walk, the moving of our bags, even about travel arrangements to and from the trail.

We received very detailed information about the walk closer to our departure. We used that information to book our dinners so that we could be sure that we had a place to eat. The guidebook we received was a fun read and an excellent and thorough resource. (The Coast to Coast Path by Henry Stedman).

We were so thrilled with our accommodation booked through Northwest Walks. The pubs were fun and it was lovely to arrive at a location for the night and be able to have dinner at the same location.

However, it was the B and B’s that were truly exceptional. Somehow we were always welcomed as if we were the first people to walk through the door. We were so well cared for with warm fires in the lounges and offers of hot tea or cold ice water depending on the weather conditions. The breakfasts were nourishing, ample and beautifully presented. The rooms were clean and sometimes quirky with murals or other decorative touches. And the beds were comfortable.

I am currently surveying the NorthWest walks web site for the next walks.

Thank you Dean and Corinne for a wonderful holiday.

My wife and I walked the Coast to Coast Walk in July 1996
We started late one afternoon at St Bees in the wind and rain.
We are from NZ, and had a strong background in Bush walking and tramping, so we were quite fit.
I was 56yrs and my wife was 53 yrs.
We were advised to walk from west to east, as the prevailing weather would be behind us.
We carried our tramping tent, and both had packs, mine 26kg and my wife's 22kg
The walk was over 21 days, with 2 rest days, we stayed 2 nights in B&B, the rest was spent in our tent in farmers fields or behind village pubs, with the permission of landlords as long as we had a beer.
We carried food and purchased more in villages when we ran low, which we prepared on a little gas cooker.
Only had about 3 days rain over the walk.
On arrival at Robin Hoods Bay,
we deposited the 2 stones we had taken from St Bees and walked in the water.
An incredible experience.
Stayed the night in a B&B in Robin Hoods Bay, down by the water, coudn't face walking up the hill.
Next day caught a bus back to the village of Little Smeaton in Yorkshire.

We had the most fantastic time as a group of 11 with Dave Childs as our wonderful guide. I can't speak highly enough about how well organized it was. The scenery was incredible and we were very sorry when it came to an end.

Hubby is wanting to do this walk from St Bees to Kirkby Stephen 7nt/6days but would like some company along the way. Apart from joining a designated group departure which are quite expensive is there anywhere he could register his dates/plans to see if any other walkers are planning a similar walk so they each have some company? Not sure if there is any such option. Any other suggestions or recommendations would be much appreciated. He plans to do this between 5 -12 June 2022

Just finished one of the best walks in the world. I used a UK company, Packhorse, to book the accommodations and transport my luggage. Challenging enough to be an adventure, met wonderful people from all over the world. I’m a fit, 68 year old person and I was in heaven.

This was a fabulous walk that left us with the most amazing memories. We did not walk with a tour group, but on our own so that we could set our own pace and not feel the pressure of having to keep up with other walkers. We are so glad that we did that! We averaged between 12-16 miles a day and we walked for 16 days. Just a couple of things other "Yanks" might want to keep in mind - some of them pretty important, and others not so much. Our trip was in July 2015.
1. Don't wear orange or yellow. Some days there are flies that LOVE orange and yellow. My sister in blue had no problem. It got so bad I had to take my jacket off. This applies to backpack covers too. No orange or yellow - no flies!
2. The Brits (and other walkers) showered and dressed for dinner each night. We often ran into some of the same walkers each night and often shared B and Bs and restaurants at night. We did not bring clothes to change into each night. It didn't bother us, but if you have the energy at the end of each day to shower and dress for dinner - go for it.
3. Our guide book said that if you were "relatively fit" the walk would not bother you at all. For some reason we focused on the word "relatively" and our focus needed to be on "fit." We highly recommend that you be "fit" before undertaking this stroll.
4. Fell walking is mountain climbing.
5. If you are afraid of heights, there are some places along this walk that might make you a little uneasy. It's safe, just something you might want to be aware of. You will need to be sure-footed.
6. Know what your boots can do in terms of grip. There are a lot of stones and slippery rocks. It will be important to know this on some of the ascents and descents you'll be doing.
7. If possible - visit the local pub each evening. Sometimes the thought of that pint of bitter got me through those last miles.
8. If you read in bed at night, take a reading light. I don't think there was one on our whole trip.
9. Don't count on a hair dryer at your inn or B and B. Most places did not have them.
10. Don't count on a drying room for your gear and boots. At least try and get some newspaper into wet boots.
11. Not every place offers laundry service, but ask. If they don't - use the sink and if you're lucky the bathroom will have a towel warmer rack.
12. Wear your gators. Even if it's dry out there will be wet areas and gators will keep your pants from getting dirty.
13. Wear pants. Some areas had high weeds and grasses with nettles and stickers.
14. Travel light. You will be hauling your own suitcase up and down a lot of stairs.
15. Have good rain gear. Gore Tex or its equivalent is a must.
16. Have a compass and if it makes you comfortable, a GPS. We only used our compass a couple times and our GPS once, but if we do it again, we will still have our GPS close by.
17. Walking poles will help you going up and going down. I think every day I said how glad I was that I had my poles.
18. Don't wear your boots into the pub or inn at the end of the day. Have a simple slip on like Crocs that you can wear in the evening. This is a must. I did not have them and walked around in my socks.
19. Take protein bars and small snacks. You appetite will decrease. The first day we each ordered a lunch and only ate half of it. The second day we ordered one lunch to split and still only ate half of it. After that we just carried a thermos of coffee or tea and sometime between 11 and 1 we'd stop for a cuppa and a shared protein bar. We might also have a banana and/or apple.
20. We carried 3 liters of water and needed all of them. Only once did we run out of water on a particularly warm day in the hills.
21. We also carried a bottle of Lucozade (like Gatorade) and on several days we were gad we had it. We would take a swig of it and then a swig of water.
22. If you've had a particularly rough day, give yourselves a day off and ride the local bus to the next night's stay. We did not plan a day off and we regretted that. Next time we would take a rest day in Grasmere and a rest day, probably in Richmond.
23. Henry Stedman is the guide to use - no question. It's excellent.
24. Book a room with a bath if possible. I'm a shower person but that hot soak each night was exquisite.

Hello hikers,
Just returned from another trip to northern England where I left my heart, with the fabulous c2c and the welcoming B&Bs. I wanted to share some more tips on some of the questions and concerns I had before our first trip and if you are in the planning stage and wondering the same things then hope my experiences will help you prepare for this hike.

1. How many days should I plan to cross?
We usually take 14 days to cross plus add in a few extra nights at several places. We always spend two nights at St Bees. The reasons: if there are any travel delays it doesn't throw off the entire itinerary; a day to acclimate to the time change; a day to walk St.Bees Head shortening the next leg by 7 miles and giving us a chance to get our bodies warmed up for the journey.
We also spend two nights in Grasmere. The reasons: our feet can always use a rest at this point; it is a beautiful village with lots of shops including nice hiking gear shops and pharmacy. I definitely recommend at least one night in Grasmere as I think going from Rosthwaite to Patterdale in one day is too far, especially if you have bad weather which is always a possibility. This Grasmere stop has always been welcome for us. The next leg to Patterdale is just 9 miles (lovely in good weather, precarious in bad)) leaving you ready to tackle the Patterdale to Shap leg, which is a long day. The Lake District, breathtaking and thrilling as it is, with its uneven, rocky terrain is always a challenge for me. My husband has no trouble whatsoever. But even he is ready for a stay in Grasmere.

2. Can I make my own reservations?
Yes, but to make your own reservations you first must make your own itinerary. This is really tough when you have no idea of the area, the terrain, the distances, or the places to stay. I did it our first trip but it took months of research and coordinating. Luckily, all worked out and we used the wonderful Packhorse for luggage transport. However, since there are so many booking agencies that can do it all for you, most find it a lot more practical to leave it to them. Just be sure to state any preferences or requests you may have. And book early!

3. How do I pay for things?
We have always brought British currency ( GBP ) purchased at a local bank at home and paid for everything with cash. We ask for 5,10, 20£ (pound) notes. We specifically request no larger denominations as many small convenience stores don't take them. We always keep our money with us in heavy duty plastic bags, well zipped. Don't want wet money.

4. Do B&Bs offer vegetarian breakfasts?
Yes. Every place we have ever stayed has offered this option. If you have any other dietary restrictions you should make requests ahead of time. I have dietary restrictions and have never had a problem anywhere. Also, almost all eating establishments, pubs, we have been to offer vegetarian options.

5. What about packed lunches?
Yes, most B&Bs we have stayed at will prepare a hearty packed lunch for the next day's journey if informed upon arrival. We also carry along crackers and packets of dry soup ( purchased at St Bees Post Office or any convenience store en route ) for an emergency meal upon arrival at the next stay. Most every place has a tea/coffee service in the room and the water heater can be used to make hot soup. We've found this simple thing a lifesaver on occasion when arriving famished, late, or too tired to go out for dinner.

6. What about laundry?
Almost every place we stay offers over night laundry service for a small fee if you arrive by late afternoon. We bring quick dry clothes and do most ourselves. We pour some of our laundry soap into one of those airline friendly 3 oz.bottles and bring along in our liquids and gel bag.

7. What's the best way to cross and do I need a guide?
This is a personal choice. Everyone has different likes and comfort zones so whatever makes you happy is right for you - couples, groups of friends, guided tour, or solo. Just remember if you go by guided tour, your pace is dictated by the slowest hiker. We always go as a couple as we like to do our own thing, at our own pace and without lots of talking.

8, What kind of shoes should I wear?
I can absolutely tell you from experience that proper footwear is the most important thing to have. This hike is cross country, through water, mud, slush, bogs, ( possible ice, snow, sleet ) and endless rocks of every size and shape imaginable, some slippery, sharp and not stationary. We bought the best leather, waterproof boots we could find and made certain they were well broken in - not just out of the box. Ankle support/protection and good treaded soles for traction are essential. Running shoes are not adequate.

9. How should I prepare for the hike?
Good preparation is the key to the most enjoyable journey. We routinely walk outside nearly every day for about an hour, all year, all weather conditions. About three months before the trip, we start amping up the hill work and time - but gradually. Before our first trip we put on the clothes we would be wearing, our broken in boots, our backpack loaded with items we would be carrying and walked around our local countryside for about 8 miles to see how everything felt. I think a trial run at home is invaluable to tweak any problems and once there I knew our excitement should carry us the extra mileage - which it always does.

10. How do I navigate my way across ?
We have always gone low tech - maps and a guide book. The route is not well marked in many areas. Before setting off each morning we study our map and guidebook and have a mental picture of where we will be going, taking note of any places that are typically confusing. If we take a wrong path, we don't panic. There is more than one way to get from point A to point B - some just take longer. We have made our fair share of wrong choices, especially in bad weather, and have had to turn around and backtrack. Just remember, it's an adventure! We reminisce and laugh about some of our personal mishaps more than any of the days that go without incident.

11. When is the best time to go?
Mid-May through September is typically the best weather and safest time. We have run into snow storms, ice and dangerous conditions in April and even early May in the Lake District - and it comes first.

12. Do I have to be young to do this?
 No.  We see many fit mid-aged and seniors doing this walk and finishing. Walking 15+ miles a day over tough terrain you must have a good amount of physical fitness and stamina but you must also have an equal amount of mental toughness which comes with age and experience.  

In closing, this is an epic adventure. If you are expecting 5 star hotels and a walk in the park, this is not the hike for you. Being prepared is the key. Expect you will have good days, bad days and possibly a few downright challenging days when you would like to give up. Keep going. You will be rewarded with the greatest feeling of accomplishment you may have ever experienced. You walked across an entire country.  

Happy Hiking,
Barb

After researching this walk I was uncertain if my wife and I were capable of doing it. We like walking but hadn’t done any long distance hiking before, but we decided to “bite the bullet” and give it a go. We are both so glad we did. This is an absolutely fabulous walk. It isn’t easy but it is doable by anyone with a moderate level of fitness and determination, appropriate clothing, footwear and basic equipment. The two most important things are to be prepared and to have good quality, good fitting footwear that is worn in.

The scenery is fabulous and varies from the coastal scenery at each end of the walk to the Fells and Gills of the Lake District, the beautiful Yorkshire Dales, the farms of the Vale of Mowbray, the Cleveland Hills and the North Yorkshire Moors. Panoramic vistas abound.

This walk should not be undertaken lightly but with some research and preparation it is an amazing experience, albeit the level of enjoyment may depend on a bit of luck with the weather. There are plenty of resources on line and good books (Stedman is probably the best) that can be used to plan this adventure.

You can book with one of the companies that will organize everything for you –B&Bs, luggage transfer and maps and even a guide if you wish. Alternatively you can pick your own B&Bs to stay in and arrange the luggage transfers only (which is what we did through Sherpa). This way you only need a day pack with wet weather gear, food and water. Of course you don’t need luggage transfers if you are fit enough to carry everything with you.

As for finding your way, the maps in Stedmans book, OS maps and GPS are all useful. You can download routes for the GPS online. There are only a couple of places where people tend to get lost in the Lake District due to the absence of directional signage (eg after Black Sail Hut and near Greenup Edge) so make sure you know about these and you shouldn’t go wrong. Stedman’s book has a page listing a few places that have caused navigational issues in the past. Also if you are not familiar with OS maps, the Lake District National Park runs a day course on reading OS maps and navigating, which is excellent.

The vast majority of people walk Wainwright’s recommended way which is from West to East. We did this and I think it is the best way to go. The hardest part is the Lake District and so whilst it was the section of the walk I enjoyed the most, it was good to do it while fresh. Fortunately the walking gets somewhat easier on the feet once you leave the Lakes District.

The walk can be completed in from 39 hours (the record held by Mike Hartley) to 20+ days depending on your preference and ability. You can do the whole route in one go as we did or you can break it up into sections, doing a bit at a time. Of course there is the added sense of achievement if you tackle the whole walk in one go.

We had 16 days of walking which is a reasonable rate averaging about 20km a day ( range 14-28 km/ day). We also had 3 ‘rest days’ along the way as we travelled form Australia and wanted to have a bit of a look around and enjoy our holiday, not just tramp across the country. If you have time, I would recommend incorporating ‘rest days’ to have a break from the route and do some exploring. It also gives the feet a bit of a break especially on the hard rocky paths in the Lake District. In general, but by no means universally, I think the people we met along the way who had incorporated 2 or 3 rest days seemed to be enjoying the walk more than those who didn’t have rest days. For some of those without rest days the walk had become “a bit of a slog”.

We took an extra day at Kirkby Stephen and, on the advice of a blog we had read, used the day to catch the train to Skipton to explore the market, Skipton Castle and Woods etc which was a really pleasant change of pace in the middle of the walk. We returned to KS in the afternoon and were off on the C2C trail again the next day (for what is often the boggiest section over Nine Standards Rigg).

Other good places for a rest day are Grassmere or Patterdale and Richmond. If you have time at the end of the walk you can incorporate a visit to Whitby which is only a 20 bus ride from Robin Hoods Bay.

We started the walk in late April. This was mainly as that was when we had leave, but advantages of this time of year are that it is shoulder season so there are less walkers on the route, the weather is cooler than it can be in summer, everything is lovely and green, the newborn lambs abound along the route and hopefully the bluebells are out. However if you want to see the heather in flower on the Moors, then you need to wait until August- September.

Overall, this is a fantastic walk. Reaching the end of the walk at Robin Hoods Bay was a bittersweet experience. A great sense of satisfaction and achievement that we had made it across England under our own steam and a sense of sadness that this fantastic experience was coming to an end and we would be returning back to “normality”.

If you are thinking of doing the Coast to Coast but not sure whether to, remember what Paddy Pallin said: “The only trips I regret are the ones I didn’t do.” Go ahead, give it a go and when you get to Robin Hoods Bay, raise a toast to Alfred Wainwright, as we did, to say thank you for pioneering this fabulous walk that we enjoyed so much.

We started in April of this year due to work constraints and ran into extremely cold weather this year with dangerous ice, snow and hail in the Lake District hikes. Therefore, if you have a choice I would recommend waiting until mid May as the Lake District comes first.

You can read my other reviews for lots of tips but for this year I am going to encourage you to PACK LIGHT! There is no need to bring everything but the kitchen sink. We have been traveling from the states to the UK for years to do this walk and never take more than one CARRY ON suitcase plus a medium backpack.

We recommend you put everything you think you might need out on the table and then get rid of most of it. Remember this is a hiking trip and there is no need whatsoever for dressing up, coiffed hair, or make up. The outfit you wear over on the plane can be your outfit to wear when you go out for dinner. Wear over comfortable shoes, comfortable easy wash pants, easy wash shirt with lots of pockets for passports, boarding passes, and other stuff. A money belt for cash and cards etc. is also a good idea. Wear your Gore-Tex jackets.

In your CARRY ON suitcase pack your disassembled hiking poles, your hiking boots stuffed with lots of things including your socks, your hiking outfit – you need only ONE. Get the quick dry fabric underwear (as ex-officio),quick dry pants, quick dry T-shirt, quick dry shirt and you are set. You can wash them out in the sink at night if necessary and they will be dry in the morning or if you don't fancy doing your own laundry most places will do your laundry for a nominal fee if you arrive before six. Along with your Gore-Tex jacket we find no other clothing is necessary while hiking, even in the cold weather as you are building up lots of body heat and the jacket acts as a windbreaker too. Also in your suitcase bring something to sleep and lounge in. We bring lightweight scrub pants and tops and always have a fleece top as find it helpful when not exercising. Bring a little zippy bag with a few toiletries. All you really need is a toothbrush, toothpaste, a razor, deodorant and.comb. Every place you stay will have shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, soap, hairdryer, and if there is something you really need just ask the host. There are also convenience stores in most places where you can buy anything you might find you need.

Now you still have your backpack. In it put your Gore-Tex rain pants, an extra pair of dry socks in case you should accidentally sink into a bog. Remember wet feet cause blisters so a dry pair of socks could come in handy. Waterproof gloves, several hats – one for cold, one for hot. Hats with visors are helpful to block the glare. Bring sunscreen also. A small first aid kit for emergencies – Band-Aids, alcohol pads, ace wrap, etc. but don't get carried away. Take some snacks and roll up some loo paper (toilet paper) in your pockets as there are no restaurants or bathrooms while out hiking. Be sure to take enough water as days can be long and arduous. And take some maps. The route is not well marked. There are lots of walking and bridal paths that lead you back to where you started. For those of you who think this is a nicely marked trail from the Irish Sea to the North Sea you are mistaken. This is cross-country hiking and any way you can get from point A to point B is okay.

So there you have a list of all you really need to take. Most people come with loads of stuff they never use. Learn the joys and freedom of traveling light. I will list the places
enroute that have convenience stores or pharmacies where you can pick up things you might need. Trust me. They have food, snacks, drinks, clothes, toiletries, toothpaste, and just about anything a person could need in the UK. You don't need to bring it all with you.

St. Bees convenience store/ post office, lots of restaurants
Ennerdale no store hotel for food
Rosthwaite no store pub food
Grasmere convenience store, pharmacy, lots and lots of clothing and sporting stores for everything gearwise you might need, many places to eat. You can pretty much find anything you would ever need in Grasmere.
Patterdale convenience store/post office hotel food across street
Shap convenience store hotel food
Kirkby Stephen 3 convenience stores, great and varied places to eat, pharmacy, lots of shops for everything you might need
Keld nothing but pub food or B&B food
Reeth convenience store and a few restaurants plus a nice bakery
Richmond EVERYTHING!
Danby Wiske only pub food
Osmotherley convenience store, hotel food, fish and chips place
Blakey Ridge (Lion Inn) no convenience store but one fabulous restaurant and bar!
Glaisdale convenience store, pub food
Grosmont convenience store, pub food
Littlebeck nothing but Intake Farm with fabulous evening meal and breakfast for those who stay there
Robin Hoods Bay convenience store/post office, hotel/pub food

Discover the joys of traveling light and be sure to read my other reviews for more hiking tips and happy walking!!